Port Dickson,
Negeri Sembilan.
Port Dickson, the playground resort in Negeri
Sembilan, is thirty-four kilometers from the
state capital of Seremban and about an hour
and a half from Malaysia's capital city, Kuala
Lumpur. It has miles of fine sandy beaches fringed
by Casuarinas, palms, and the intricate, above-ground
root formations of the Banyan tree. The road
to Port Dickson hugs the Malaysian coastline,
making impromptu rest and swim stops almost
impossible to resist. Vendors along the road
offer thirst-quenching drinks of coconut water
and sugar-cane juice. A complete menu of leisure
activities is available in Port Dickson, including
water-skiing, canoeing, snorkeling, windsurfing,
and sailing, all of which can easily be handled
through the reception desk at your hotel.
Despite Port Dickson's reputation as an area
firmly focused on beach resort activity, the
sights and history of the surrounding area are
well worth experiencing. At Kota Lukut, a mere
seven km from Port Dickson, stands the fort
of Raja Jumaat, a renowned nineteenth-century
Bugis warrior. The fort was built in 1847 to
control the lucrative tin trade in the area.
Another rewarding site is the lighthouse at
Cape Rachardo, built by the Portuguese in the
16th century in order to guide ships to the
safety of Malacca's harbor. The lighthouse is
still functioning today, and visitors can ascend
its narrow spiral stair to the beacon, which
offers a magnificent view of the coastline of
Sumatra. The Cape is also a popular stopover
point for migratory birds. From September to
March, flocks of sparrows, honey buzzards, and
swifts can be seen here, together with birds
of prey, such as hawks and eagles.
Twenty-three kilometers south of the lighthouse,
on the road to Malacca, sits the small and mysterious
village of Pengkalan Kempas. The village houses
the enigmatic 15th-century tomb of Sheikh Ahmad
Majnun, whose epitaph explains that he fell
while fighting to save a now unknown woman referred
to simply as "the princess."
It is home to a more prominent mystery as well,
however. Beside the tomb stand three megaliths,
elaborately carved, of unknown origin and use.
As if to seal the reputation of this hamlet
of the unknown, there is also in Pengalen Kempas
an "ordeal stone." This ancient lie-detector,
through which a person would put his arm when
answering questions, allegedly reacts to an
untruth by closing upon the liar's fist. Whether
or not this story is true makes for an interesting
dare.
